The big reveal has begun. No, the verdict from the judges is still out in terms of who will have the most favored patchouli perfume in the PLAP project but we now know which noses are behind each of the secret numbered vials. *For anyone who has been following the numbers on Perfume Pharmer’s site, I’ve posted the list (and the names of the perfumes) at the bottom of this post. I can now say that I am mysterious #11 and so happy to be so; 11 has always been ‘my’ number. It makes me smile every time I see it.
So, now that I am free to talk about my own entry, BodhiSativa, I’m wondering what to say about it. Hmmm… I mentioned in a previous post that all of the patchouli perfumes I conceived are ‘Summer Patchouli’ designs. True. They have a lightness that I think is delightful and so unusual when considering the nature of straight patchouli oil. I know that some of the judges (aka Patch Test Bunnies) have really been digging the heavy, serious deep patchouli that you would expect or that they remember from back in the day. I wanted to do something different… you know: a challenge. And a new aromatic signature for me; a note I’ve never used before.
While I was already working on the original “Bodhisattva” floral patchouli scent (no.3), there was this simultaneous phenomenon happening at the studio: an influx of interest in the cannabis aroma which seemed to be coming from everywhere. My apprentice has had a few aromatic fascinations from the start: tomato (!), green notes in general and cannabis. She just loves very complex plant aromas and cannabis is no different. We had been exploring accords to develop this aroma for a little while when we happened upon some ***hemp / cannabis essential oil. It occurred to us that an all natural / aromatherapy that had a cannabis note would be very relaxing and soothing to LOTS of clients in Boulder. And then there were people stopping by the studio wanting to talk about cannabis perfumes. Like every other day for weeks. It seemed to be an omen. That’s when the concept for Bodhi Sativa came. I really wanted to do a patchouli design that was going to be more long term; something we would keep as opposed to most of the ‘project perfumes’ that have a very limited edition. This was it. (Aquarius, patchouli no.2 gave BodhiSativa a run for it’s money, but the animal tinctures are not ingredients I would be able to keep in stock all of the time, so it had to be a limited number). I also have to say that as a patchouli scent, it seemed to fit like a glove with the project: kinda hippie-ish, has a summer time freshness, and well, something new to give the patch a twist. I knew that I *didn’t* want to make a pseudo-aveda, head shop or natural food store style patchouli (not that there’s anything wrong with those). I wanted a real original. Bodhi Sativa was it for me.
For anyone that has smelled what some would call “kind bud” (aka a really sweet, sticky, resinous pot bud) there is an unmistakable sweet-fruity-ok: mildly skunky-herbal-floralcy to this smell. Some dislike it but many find it the best part of the cannabis experience: the smell. And that skunky reference might seem anathema to perfume but there are many smellers out there who profess a deep love for the smell of skunks and gasoline (not dissimilar aromas). Some even call it addictive.
BodhiSativa is what I feel is the best of balancing acts: the rich aged patchouli, the fruity-floralcy of the cannabis accord and an exotic wood / incense drydown. Oh, and there are little hints at animalic nuances throughout to give it even more interest. I like that some of the judges smelled these notes as leather and others as chocolate. We know what the secret ingredient really is… and according to Alice B. Toklas, it goes well with brownies.
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*Here’s the whole Peace, Love and Patchouli / Summer of Patchouli LOVE project perfumers / perfumes lineup:
1) Dupetit, Indienne
2) Liz Zorn, River Walk
3) Shelley Waddington, Go Ask Alice
4) Jane Cate, Haight and Ashbury
5) April Aromatics, Bohemian Spice
6) Happiness, Perfume by Nature
7) Providence Perfume Company, No Name yet…
8 ) Lyn Ayre, Patchouli Paisley
9) no one gets this number…
10) JoAnne Bassett, Tetu
11) DSH, Bodhi Sativa
12) Amanda Feeley, Queen of Punk
13) Opus Oils, Wild Child
14) Therapeutate, Royal Water
**image credit: green cannabis found here, cannabis kind bud found here, “marijuana girl” found here
***FYI: Hemp / Cannabis essential oil has no THC.
I’ve gone back to BodhiSativa several times since my initial sniff of it several weeks ago, and it’s one of the few that I keep finding new nuances for, it’s very cool.
I happen to LOVE skunkiness in perfumes (as well as real skunk smell as long as it’s not on me, also gasoline and other similar notes). I recently reviewed Amanda Feeley’s For the Love of Bees. There is a distinct skunkiness about it, which in combination with the honey & beeswax, is just intoxicating. I never attributed it to marijuana, but maybe it’s in there, who knows? 🙂
The smell of (unsmoked) marijuana is wonderful, it would be the kind of fragrance/flavor I’d love to have in a tea, perfume or candle (like Juliette Has a Gun Mary Jane or Jonathan Adler Hashish). It’s been SO long since I’ve smelled the stuff, but I’ve got a clear sensory memory of it. It’s not the kind of smell you forget!
Hi, Carrie~ 🙂 I’m glad you liked BodhiSativa! Yes, it’s got a kind of simpleness as it’s a patchouli but the underlying notes are very nuanced. I know that *I* have been enjoying people’s reactions to it and enjoying it myself.
I know what you mean about loving the smell of the ‘uncooked’ shall we say, smell of marijuana. There are actually soo many varieties, too, that all smell somewhat different; I find that fascinating as well. And skunk – oh yes, there are TONS of skunk scent lovers and gasoline ( not that you would want to wear either of those full tilt, but a nuance? yes, I think there are takers on that). Well, you will be happy ypu know that I am not done with the cannabis accord designs. The BodhiSativa, as it is all botanical, made the cannabis accord more difficult design to complete but I have a partial-synthetic that does the sweet- funky-herbal thing even more clearly that will be coming out some time soon. I’ll be sure to let you know.
I love hippie-ish patch scents, so I am looking forward to trying/owning this. My poor husband, though, associates it with his college experience in Berkeley in the late 80’s, so I hope this will change his mind about patch!:o)
Hi, Elizabeth~ 🙂 Thank you for stopping by and your comment! I know what your husband is going through… Living in Boulder, (plus my husband has been a professional musician for 25+years), I have smelled some REALLY BAD patchouli smells. Actually just last week I had an encounter with a “Patchouli and Feet” aroma downtown. Not pretty. BUT, the good news is that I have tried some of these project perfumes on people who dislike patchouli and they didn’t find them to be patchouli perfumes (until I told them). 😀 I believe there is hope. Do let me know how it works out~
[…] holy smoke {aka bodhi sativa / #11 :: aka PLAP project part 4 … And a new aromatic signature for me; a note I've never used before. While I was already working on the original “Bodhisattva” floral patchouli scent (no.3), there was this simultaneous phenomenon happening at the studio […]
Hi Dawn – I just ordered samples of Bodhi Sativa and Bodhisattva this weekend, and am anxious to try them! (wasn’t sure about Aquarius, as “animalic” kind of spooks me…previous bad experiences with musky animalics like SJP’s Lovely and Serge Luten’s Muscs Kublai Khan that were dirty, sweaty horrors on me).
I’m really interested in your discussion of cannabis scents. Back in the ’90s, before The Body Shop kind of sold out, they developed this fabulous hemp line that included a fabulous scented oil for the home and a divine candle. I was truly devastated when they were discontinued (largely, I believe, because of the negative press they got for their hemp products, which they had to defend against lunatic claims that they were selling pot products). I milked the oil until the last drop. I *still* have those candles, and they remain quite fragrant. I have also been a fan of Fresh Cannabis Santal (especially on my fiance!), and have often wished that someone would do something interesting and innovative with hemp. I think it’s cool that others are having the same ideas, and I can’t wait to smeil your take on it.
On an unrelated note, I was also wondering if you’d chosen any additional scents for your line of solid perfumes? Curious to know if Oeillet Rouge or American Beauty, two of my favorites, made the cut
Have a wonderful 4th!
lisa
Hi, Lisa! Sorry to leave you in limbo for a couple of days… 🙂 Thank you for your interest in Bodi Sativa and Bodhisattva… I think that you might be surprised by Aquarius, though, It’s much more soft and warm than the typical ‘animalic’.
I’ll be very interested to hear your thoughts on the BodhiSativa… the cannabis is of course secondary to the patchouli. But I am working on some other very different cannabis note fragrances that are, well, a bit more straight forward shall we say. I will keep you posted. There will certainly be more on the cannabis note… there’s already been lots of interest. (BTW: don’t you find the fresh cannabis / santal remarkably like angel? I smell it that way…)
So, about the new solids… Oeillets Rouge is on the short list and a few others. Coming soon. 🙂 ( In August). oxo
Dawn,
My order arrived today, and included my two PLAP samples. I have to tell you that Bodhi Sativa is really wonderful! Such a rich and surprising take on patch! This is a patch that is very wearable, whether for weekends, a day at the office, or an evening out. It’s got a depth to it that I haven’t found in many patch-centric scents, and is far removed from the “hippie” vibe that I think many people associate with patch fragrances. I think that even the “patch reluctant” need to try this one! I completely understand why it was your entry for the PLAP Project. I will definitely be getting myself a bottle, once I also work through all of your “Italian Splendor Collection” samples. I just started sampling them, and already, Medici also has my attention 🙂