I don’t know about anyone else but for me last week was one crazy week… Was there something in the stars? Or is it the pre-Holiday ramping up we’re all doing right now (whether we realize it or not) ? It might have also been the big excitement around the studio for the launch of the newest joint project with the Natural Perfumers Guild and eight bloggers, which starts TODAY! Tah Dah: The OUTLAW Project.
The OUTLAW Project was presented to us, as perfumer members of the Guild, to create a perfume utilizing botanical perfume materials that are on the IFRA / EU restricted and / or banned list. You might ask why we would want to do that? Well, in the past few years more and more naturals have been singled out as ‘hazardous’ ( ie: might cause a rash or you might be allergic to it) and what we are left with is an increasing selection of synthetics to replace the naturals with. I, personally, am not one to dis synthetics altogether as gross or whatever… I see their beauty and their value. However, I do find that most perfumes that are composed of nearly all synthetics are poor quality, feel soul-less and flat-out don’t smell good to me. This whole thing has sadly become a political hot button issue in many places and what seems to be the result so far is the killing off of some of our best historical classics (YSL Opium, whether you like this fragrance or not, is a masterpiece and has recently been re-formulated to exclude all of those pesky naturals on the IFRA /EU list and while some find the new fragrance pleasant, it’s not Opium…more like “Ghost of Opium”).
As a Perfumer I am horrified to consider life without rose absolute / rose otto, or jasmine, bergamot or styrax for that matter… These classic perfumery materials are fundamental to classic perfumery styles and without them, we can not practice our art. As an artist, I will always work with materials that I have, but to be relegated to an entirely synthetic world changes everything. And I don’t think it is for the better. Not by a long shot. So, the OUTLAW perfume project was born out of protest and a call to common sense and sanity when it comes to the potential risks of interacting with perfume. A simple label should suffice (* if cigarettes can just have a warning label, why not perfume?) Plus, on the political side, seriously, we have more exposure to chemicals in food, which we completely ingest by eating, than we do from applying scent to the skin. Oh and the chemicals I am speaking of are naturally occurring, like eugenol in cloves or terpenes in orange oil. You could get more exposure by eating pesto (basil is on the list as well).
So, we will be outlaws: we will continue to produce perfumes outside of the confines of IFRA and the EU standards because we know that the materials we are using are not HARMFUL (to most everyone) and that a simple label suggesting caution and forethought when using the product is enough. Also, speaking as someone with asthma and who has been tested to find that I am allergic to just about everything in nature (grasses, mold, pollen…) I know that I have to be careful in the world; people with allergies, etc know this. So they will read the label, take it to heart and do the recommended patch test. They will also go slow in terms of spreading something all over them before they know how it will react. This is common sense and we will stand for that by going rogue…by being OUTLAWS.
By now, you might have read a bit about my OUTLAW perfume submission, Mata Hari, who was quite the outlaw herself. I really liked that she was European so that I could take some influences from classic European perfume from the early 1900’s and show how integral the naturals are to the richness, quality and overall design elements of classic perfumes. I also like that she was pretending to be Indonesian, of Hindu royalty and trained in the Temple rituals of her culture. This inspired traditional Oriental aromatics that were also on the forbidden list. All in all, I must have used over 20 essences on the list (*which is huge and you can see it at indieperfumes blog and also WAFT…blog), maybe more. When creating an all botanical perfume, how can you not end up using notes that are on that list… EVERYTHING is on that list.
In this post I was going to talk more about the perfume but I ended up talking politics and the destruction of our art form. Good. We need to talk about this. We are losing so much more than our history… we’re losing the opportunity to create more wonderful works on the continuum of that heritage. Our future is at stake. We must make a stand and become OUTLAWS.
ps: I almost forgot to list the bloggers who are partnering with the Guild to review the perfumes and talk about our project:
It’s going to be an exciting week!
I think I already said it on one of the participating blogs, but this was a much needed outcry and I do hope it generates some changes (even though I don’t really believe European bureacracy will allow it).
I don’t even want to imagine a world where natural components for a perfume are completely banned. It sounds like a bad sci-fi movie where the big companies control our lives. *shudder*
Although honestly, this feels like exactly that – like all those essences are banned so someone would earn more money on synthetics.
Hello, Ines~
It seems that there’s more and more outcry concerning the IFRA / EU restrictions, which is great, but I am very concerned about the forces that are attempting tho have similar and worse (!) legislation here. The Personal Care Safety Act that is heading through Congress right now is Frightening and dangerous. The propaganda around it makes ordinary people who are not informed about what the legislation really says think that it is in their best interest and will keep them safe but what really is on tap is creating legislation to put small businesses out of business (who would not have the means to comply); many of whom are the natural companies that create the alternatives to the chemical products themselves. It’s all a runaround that is in favor of big business. In the meantime, our art form is in jeopardy as well as the entire small natural business community. All we can do is fight for good science and sanity. ( see what happens when I get on my soapbox?? lol. 🙂 ) Thanks so much, Ines , for stopping by the blog.
ox, Dawn
Good for you! Just to let you know that we are now in the last 4 days of Venus Retrograde in 13 Scorpio. On Thursday, it goes direct and will again pass over 13 Scorpio on Dec. 21. Venus Direct is know by the Mayans as a call to war–Venus released from the underworld rises as the Morning Star. They planned all their wars around it. So it looks like you’re right on time. Plus you had your 2 year birthday on the New Moon in 13 Scorpio–furthur emphasizing this theme. You must have some good Scorpio planets! I wish you well and thank you for my recent shipment of Cardamom and Khypri!
Hi, Vishishta~
Hmmm… not surprising… and yes, I do have good planets in Scorpio: Venus / Jupiter in exact conjunction at 4 scorpio (I was told by an experienced astrologer that this is called the Dark Goddess aspect. I guess that explains why I like the Lilith myth so much… 😉 ) as well as Neptune (but that’s a generational thing) but I don’t remember the degree. That’s a wild Mayan myth : I love it! Goodness knows, I like to be right on time.
I’m so glad to see you back at the blog and also that you are loving your Cardamom & Khyphi! Blessings to you~ D
I’m looking forward to the discussions that will result from this project as much as the perfumes!
Hi, JoanElaine~
The discussion seems to have jumped right off into the heat, which is cool! And I will also be interested to read the reviews of the work as they are published. I thought that that was one of the best parts of the MoM project: tuning in to see something new everyday. It really is a lot of fun. 🙂 best, D
Thats really great.
I am thrilled to hear about this project. Is it just me, but when a perfume is mostly produced from synthetic ingredients, I find it to be much more irritating and sneeze inducing! I can’t even imagine a world without beautiful natural essenses to enjoy. That’s the day everyone will smell like dryer sheets! *Shudder* Your idea of the warning label is a simple, perfect solution.
Hello, RD~
No, I don’t think it’s just you. I don’t sneeze but I find strongly synthetic fragrances irritating and I tend to want to cough or gag or something like that. I can’t stand to go down the soap isle at a grocery store and what upsets me most, honestly, are the fabric softeners / detergents that are so highly scented. How come that’s ok but naturals in fine fragrance are not? That stuff surely gets on your skin… (and on weekends makes the entire neighborhood smell BAD when everyone is doing laundry en masse and you’ve got to breathe it if you are outside). Oh, don’t get me started. 😉 Thank you for stopping by the blog and weighing in. It’s great to see you here.
have a lovely day~ D
Yes I know that Jupiter in 4 Scorpio! Both my mother and daughter have it! A good section to read is Erin Sullivan’s Retrograde Planets, where she discusses the Mayan myths around Venus retrograde. It is stunning. And I too, have a deep fascination with Lilith. Demetra George on that one. Anyway, Jupiter also goes direct on Thursday, and the Moon is in Aries so I think it will be a hoppin’ day. Busy, Busy, Busy holiday season–and for you, I think, powerful. I truly admire your work and hope the best for you! Peace and Love, Vishishta
Hello, Vishishta~
WOW! I’ll have to look up Erin Sullivan… I have read a bunch from Demetra George, too. She’s great. Thank you for the recommendations and the transits! I haven’t been following. And thank you, as always, for your kindness and good wishes! I send the very same: Peace, love and blessings~ D
What an exciting project! It is time we stood up to the industrial bullies. As I have written on a few other blog posts: I am pro-(ingredient)choice and I buy perfumes.
🙂 Thank you Queenie! I think so, too. I love your comment!