that mushroom thang (aka cuir et champignon)

It seems like ages since I’ve managed a blog post… I will endeavor to be more faithful to my new project.  (I seem to remember a TA in art school stating that I should be “less promiscuous” artistically and “be faithful” to each painting until it is finished before moving on to the next.  How little has changed… I still have multiple projects / works going simultaneously.)

As I get myself ready to hop a plane to NYC for this weekend’s Sniffapalooza Fall Ball, I also have a few other projects and events lined up to work on, complete or attend.  Not the least of which is our second anniversary party at the ESSENSE STUDIO (woo hoo!) on November 5 but even closer, the launch of our new Autumn creation Cuir et Champignon.  It’s going to be previewed this weekend at Sniffa and I’m very excited to get people’s impressions.  I’ve had the concept of a “Champignon” perfume for quite some time but after getting some Cepes absolute (portobello absolute, I believe or is it porcini?  I don’t quite remember) I realized it would have to be deeper and go places that I hadn’t imagined before.  I don’t know if many have ever smelled Cepes absolute but if you haven’t here’s a quick description: it smells like soup.  Delicious, salty beef broth or boullion and VERY concentrated.  So, of course I diluted it.  When diluted to about 10% the ‘soup’ changes: now it is miso with bonito flakes.  It is still salty and very much food-like but there is a distinct fish-flavor a brewing.  Hmmm.  I can easily say that Cepes is not an easy natural aromatic to work with.  Cool!  I love a challenge.  And I really like Cepes, even with the fish-flakes nuance.  However, when making PERFUME, fish is, well, not recommended.  I thought to dilute it down further but no.  I’m going to go for it right here; let’s jump off a cliff.

The addition of the leather as a deeper base gave the whole concept more framework and allowed me to dive into that mushroom thang wholeheartedly.   What finally came out was just what I was hoping for: a smooth rounded topnote that evokes white button mushrooms, then slides into the ‘brown’ mushroom note (Cepes – minus the soup effect) and keeps drying down into dusty leather with rich sandalwood.   There’s even a floralcy that shines through, tempering the intensity of earth.   For me, it’s wonderfully Autumnal and just what I’ve been craving as the air gets chilly and leaves are falling golden.

See you at Sniffa for the preview or we’ll have Cuir et Champignon on the site in November for you to sniff at home.

(I hope that you will enjoy this very provocative photo of a mystery mushroom that sprouted in my back yard this summer.  I couldn’t resist.)