It’s begun! The Summer of Peace, Love and Patchouli is on and I have to say that I have had a great time playing with this concept; contemplating ideas, moving with the flow and narrowing the designs down to one.
It took a bit of deliberating, but I finally made my choice. It was quite the journey. I brainstormed a number of concepts before one showed up as a strong feeling but wait… that path sent me in two more directions before I settled on a winner. It seemed that the big question was: are we, with this project, hiding the patchouli or making true patchouli perfumes, in the same way that one would think about a soliflore (which is to create a unique setting upon which the ‘gem’ note is placed to SHINE)? Or are we attempting to create perfumes with patchouli that ‘hide’ it in a way to try and get non-patchouli lovers to say: “Oh, there’s patchouli in that?” Patchouli is such a versatile perfumery material and depending on the origin, whether it’s light , dark or aged (my favorite! I age all of my patchouli) the patchouli feels and acts differently in a composition. I knew that I had to first answer this essential question and the answer was: let’s go for a PATCHOULI perfume, first and foremost. Another thing I also knew from the beginning was that this was a Summer patchouli project. So, I decided that I would attempt a bit of a trick, which is to make a LIGHT, soliflore patchouli perfume. (Patchouli is not exactly known for its “lightness”, you know. But you also know how I love a challenge).
I contemplated a woody / chypre style all elegance; chic and smooth. I also thought about a fruity / wood melange (oh yes: delish!) but while having a mango lassi at one of my favorite Indian restaurants I had this idea of something supremely spiritual and euphoric (but in a new concept… so many times euphoric patchouli designs in the naturals / aromatherpay world are ylang / patch based, as so many Aveda pure-fumes will attest to). While floating in this creamy orange-colored bliss I thought of it as a warm, rich, luscious orange…burnt orange-red orange floating clouds billowing over deep earth all brown, rust, and chocolate-y (not a chocolate aroma, just the color and texture). As well, a Thangka painting came immediately to mind for added inspiration. I thought: Yes! this is where I want to go. To the Himalayas to trek above the clouds and traverse to Shangri-La.
Over the coming weeks I spent time exploring this feeling and ‘color palette’ (you know, more and more I seem to be designing solely in this kind of abstracted short hand of color tonalities and texture to get to the feel of the perfume I want. No more describing in terms of the materials themselves….anyway, I digress) then something happened. A new influence started to come to the studio from everywhere at once it seemed and this influence was a note that EVERYONE seemed to want to explore with me. This ‘note’ got me thinking about another design concept.
But things usually come to me in threes, at least… yes really they do. And this project was no different. Concept 3 came about 3 weeks before the deadline and I have to tell you that it’s given the first two a run for their money in terms of fierceness : a grungy, truly earthy, no hiding the fact that it’s PATCHOULI and maybe it’s the scent of that no washin’ hippie you knew back in 1967. And yes, this one smells like the summer of LOVE, if you know what I mean. I’m talking inspired by the original HAIR play. (A very dear friend of mine was in that original Broadway cast so it’s kinds close to my heart). YEAH! I have to say I love this one. But I really love them all.
Here’s the facebook page for PLAP so you can follow the excitement. Plus, my patchouli project designs will be up on my site tomorrow (June 13). You should know that I have changed the series numbers so, my choice for the project is now No.1: BodhiSativa. And the other two are: No.2: Aquarius (our animalic patchouli scent) and No.3: Bodhisattva (a smooth floral patchouli). I’ve had a blast creating my Summer Patchoulis and I hope that everyone will have some fun following the project and maybe becoming your very own patch test bunnies.
*image credits: PLAP image is copyright perfume pharmer.com
Thangka Painting image here
Shangri-La image here (and if you haven’t seen the classic movie “Lost Horizon”, do! It’s terrific.
HAIR original cast image found here (plus you could take a listen while you’re there
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Hi Dawn! I just got my patchouli samples yesterday and I stayed up late sniffing and making notes. This is SO much fun for me, I can’t even find the words! I’ve narrowed it down from 13 to 5, and I’m dreading having to eliminate two of them in order to get my top 3. It sounds like you had a lot of fun on your end as well, I wish i could have tried every incarnation that you dreamed up!
Hi, Carrie Meredith!
Oh, I can only imagine… I know how hard it was to narrow down my three into my submission to the project. The good news is that you can smell all three incarnations as I will have limited amounts of each available. I look forward to your thoughts and your choices and an amazing Summer of Patchouli love! oxo~ D
I just got my Patch Test Bunny samples, and I can’t wait to try them all! Thanks for giving us a peek at what your process was for creation of these perfumes – I will appreciate them all the more!
Hi, Flora!
Thank you so much for stopping by! The Patchoulis have been really delicious and I know that you will have a blast with your samples. I can’t wait to hear about your thoughts and choices… And I should be getting more vials in this week so that I will be able to send the vials for the decants you are donating to the Museum but I can surely send samples of the other patchoulis (not the one in the patch tests…) for fun. Enjoy enjoy enjoy!!!
Every Patchouli Perfume has it’s charms
..honestly with each arrival I would exclaim THIS is my FAVORITE! Only to feel guilty over the other “children” …go back and sniff… and know that EACH is lovely in his or her own way! My gosh! I tell people (the Islander sniffers)..OK, Hypothetical Situation…you come into my perfume store. I have ONLY patchouli perfumes… you decide you will buy 3 perfumes to go home with as your souvenirs… only 3 as the $$ will only stretch that far… so…which 3?
It certainly has been fun making them!
I am so tickled to be PLAPPING with you and all the rest of the perfumers. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and mood with us, as you created your patch bunny perfume.
Hi, Amanda~
I so look forward to everyone’s writing about the process. oxo
Yes! It is a blast and is only going to get better as we explore all of the work.
[...] the patchouli project (aka PLAP or special project no.6) « DSH … It seemed that the big question was: are we, with this project hiding the patchouli or making true patchouli perfumes in the same way that one would think about a soliflore, which is to create a unique setting upon [...]
[...] project designs no.1, no.2 and no.3. Check out the Collaborations and other Muses page or my blog, DSHnotebook, for all of the ins and out of my three designs: BodhiSativa (no.1), Aquarius (no.2) and [...]